Nora and I received a bit more than we bargained for on our tour of the Saltos del Petrohué. Because the weather wasn’t that great and we planned on hiking to the top of a different volcano, we signed up for the Saltos-only tour. But, once on the van, we were also taken to a llama farm, German settlement, a big lake and Volcán Osorno … in the pouring rain. We were grateful to have the chance to see all those other places (for free), but the weather was truly terrible. Of all, the Saltos del Petrohué was certainly the main event, and quite magnificent — no matter the weather.

I am hesitant to even post the pictures of the Saltos del Petrohué because it was plain impossible to capture what it was like to actually be there. Here’s my best attempt at that feat.

A snapshot of the Saltos del Petrohué, Chile: Twisting and turning over heaps of charcoal lava rocks, crystal cyan waters rush through the deep-set banks and fall into a glimmering turquoise river. Hundreds of tourists mill about on two rickety look-out bridges but the crowd seems to disappear, its appearance unworthy of a glimpse against the backdrop and its voices inaudible against the swift current. Even as the fog hides Volcán Osorno and turns the giant hills into a patchy, mysterious wonder — the Saltos del Petrohué define breathtaking. A picture on the world’s fanciest camera couldn’t do it justice.

Saltos del Petrohué

Saltos del Petrohué / I think this is where you’re supposed to see Volcán Osorno in the distance, but it was being temperamental.

Aquamarine waters of the Saltos del Petrohué.

This incredible phenomenon was created when Volcán Osorno erupted, sending hot lava racing through the Petrohué River. When the lava hardened, its formations created powerful chute-like waterfalls in an already beautiful landscape. In the winter when the rainy season raises the water level, the current is so strong one of the lookout bridges is completely engulfed in its waves and closed to the public.

Since we went in the summer, we walked across both bridges for a few photo ops. As you can see in the photos, we are sopping wet from head to toe. But even in the downpour, my only complaint about the Saltos was that I couldn’t stay longer.

On a clear day, you are supposed to see Volcán Osorno in the background of the waterfalls … which I knew from all the postcard pictures. But, even without the volcano’s looming presence, the Saltos were so remarkable I didn’t realize the volcán was missing from the foggy scene until a day later when I saw another postcard in a shop window. However, even those “picture-perfect” postcards — with Volcán Osorno in clear view — hardly show a glimpse of what it was like to have my feet on charcoal lava as aquamarine water gushed past in one of the prettiest fashions I’ve ever witnessed.

Me a bit bundled up and thinking, “I thought it was supposed to be ‘summer.'”

Me.

A tranquil little lagoon on the far side of the Saltos.

The amazing-ness stops there.

The tour guides honestly should have skipped taking our group to Volcán Osorno given the weather conditions, but this is South America and safety regulations mean nothing. In the backseat of a van that sped up a very, very windy road of a volcano peak, each passing turn marked another miracle that I didn’t lose my lunch.

Besides being extremely car-sick, the wind was so strong it was nearly impossible to keep two feet on solid ground. The fog was so thick, it was definitely impossible to see more than 10 feet let-alone lakes and other supposed beauty off of look-out points.

For an extra two hours soaking wet in the cold, I saw this …

This is the part where you’re supposed to see Lago Llanquihue from a look-out point on Volcán Osorno. Isn’t it pretty? Haha.

At the ski lodge on Volcán Osorno. Cue pouring rain and 50 mph gusts, and unsuccessfully pretending like you’re having fun “looking at the view.”

… nothing. Throughout the ordeal, Nora and I reminded ourselves of our new motto: “rain or shine, it’s gonna be fine” and thought about how lucky we were to see the Saltos in an attempt to lessen the pain of driving up Volcán Osorno. Little did we know, the adventure up that volcano wouldn’t be the biggest volcanic hardship we’d experience on our trip (more on that later).

We survived the weather, and somehow still have smiles.

—JDF