My friend Nora and I are into our first week of two months backpacking through South America.
First stop: Bogotá, Colombia. The country is reputed to be full of cocaine and violent rebels, but the Colombian slogan tells a different story: The only risk is that you might want to stay. 

A snapshot from Bogotá, Colombia: The city of Bogotá is a maze of a million streets with a sort-of watch tower — a pristine white church — sitting atop the massive Cerro Monserrate to peer down at the 8.5 million people milling about. Micro buses chug up and down the hilly streets, stopping for anyone who waves one down. In brief moments when buses aren´t whizzing by in a cloud of black smog, the aroma of homemade bread takes over. A mishmash of textured architecture — brick, stone and layered paint — lines the cobblestone streets in every color. The bright hues also splash nearly every wall in eye-catching murals that stretch on for blocks. Local businessmen trade emerald stones, the country´s precious gem, in the center of a main plaza. Others rent talk time from street vendors who peddle minutes from one of a dozen cell phones that dangle from silver chains on poles. These locals are like the surrogate parents of young female travelers, giving unsolicited advice and bearing words of caution with warm wishes at every turn in the crowded labyrinth of city streets.

Bogota and Cerro Monserrate looming above in the distance.

The maze of city streets from atop Cerro Monserrate.

Street art is so interesting to me because it is an expression of culture. Bogotá murals are no different. The work shows a mestizo nationality, or mixed race, that makes the Colombian population so diverse and rich in tradition. Often adorned wih quotes about art and education or womanhood, it´s easy to see their values and desire to succeed in an emerging society.

Near the city center, the historical quarters in Plaza Simón Bolívar are home to the presidential palace and other monuments. But to me, more striking than the age-old architecture are the pigeons. Locals sell corn kernels for tourists to feed the birds that flock to the square by the hundreds. I´ve never seen so many birds in such a small area, and pigeons no less — yuck! Nobody seemed to be bothered by what I consider to be ¨rats of the sky,¨ and locals and tourists alike fed the pigeons right out of their hands.

Colombian Presidential Palace

Simón Bolívar Plaza

Nora and I

Pigeons

There is quite a bit to love about Bogotá, from the interesting sites to the perfect weather (70 degrees F, 20 degrees C year-round). The food, mostly beans and rice or corn-based bread, is delicious. Everything is dirt cheap. Lunch, for example, is about US$3.50.

But what makes Bogotá special is the people. The sites are spread out and the big city´s bus system is difficult to navigate (by Day 2, I already desperately missed Santiago´s metro). Nora and I have been completely at the mercy of helpful locals, who go out of their way to ask if we know where we´re going. They have certainly proved their nation´s slogan to be true.

A Bogotá plaza.

Houses in Bogotá´s La Candelaria neigborhood.

One of many bike street vendors selling fresh fruit juice.

Me in beautiful Bogotá.

—JDF